Our first morning in Lembongan (a small island off the East coast of Bali) was dramatic. Apparently every two years they have mass cremation ceremonies for all those who have died during that period. The bodies are exhumed and depending on the economic status of the families, various kinds of elaborate ceremonies are held. Relatives from all over Indonesia and Borneo come to Lembongan for these important ceremonies. That morning was the day after the last day, and all the relatives were going home. It was six a.m., and we thought (in our ignorance) that they were all going home after partying all night. You could clearly hear all the garrulous chatter, over the sound of the waves and boat engines.